Actually, it’s a spectacular time of year to visit Steamboat. But I’ll excuse my friend for the misguided notion that this is a winter town. Steamboat is, after all, best known for skiing, a place where the only thing deeper than the blue sky is the powder snow.

    Among the town’s claims to fame is hometown hero and 1964 Olympic silver medalist skier Billy Kidd, known for making fresh tracks in his trademark cowboy hat.

    Ah, but Steamboat is a summer town, too. And the beauty of the mountains, the ranch lands and the Yampa Valley - when it’s green - is jaw-dropping (fall is also gorgeous thanks to the abundance of colorful aspens).

    We drove from Denver (you can also fly into the Yampa Valley through Denver, Houston or Salt Lake City), chosing the “scenic” route that takes about four hours. My traveling companions - Erica and her 8-year-old daughter, Emilee - and I set off in our rental car west on I-70 and up into the foothills then the front range, taking Highway 40 up and around a series of switchbacks over Berthoud Pass.

    At an elevation of 11,315 feet, with views of mountains massive and imposing, it was too windy and brisk for Emilee’s blood. Erica, too, lamented what she figured would be a chilly vacation in summer.

    Then, a funny thing happened. We descended through Winter Park and, as we moved west, the weather became warmer and sunnier. We stopped in a little western town by the Colorado River for a picnic, then continued driving past cattle, horses and hay bales on wide-open ranch lands sloping for miles to the mountains in the distance.

    The mountains grow gentle and green on the western slopes of the Rockies in northwestern Colorado.

    The first thing you notice when you arrive in Steamboat Springs is that everyone looks tan and fit. That’s because in addition to being a quintessential Western town and mountain resort this is also an outdoor lover’s paradise. The town is surrounded by National Forest and Wilderness areas, and miles of ranch land.

    We headed to catch an afternoon gondola ride up Mount Werner. As we walked into Gondola Square, I was struck by all the activity. Kids bounced on a slingshot bungee jump and inside an inflated moon bouncer. People were playing miniature golf. Athletic types scaled an outdoor climbing wall. And mountain bikers were everywhere - there are 50 miles of mountain-biking trails on Steamboat’s six peaks.

    To our delight (especially Emilee’s), the gondola carried us up to more than 9,000 feet above sea level to a spectacular view of the valley. We set off on a short hike on Mount Werner’s Vista Nature Trail, which winds through meadows filled with wildflowers and aspen groves. Wooden signs along the way described the local wildlife, including the blue grouse, elk, snowshoe hare and weasel.

    While it was still daylight, we hurried back down the mountain to catch our next adventure: the Howler Alpine Slide.

    On the first trip down, Emilee rode with me, begging to go faster with each twist and turn down the concrete track. After one ride, she’d had enough of my snail’s pace and opted to go it alone, beating her mother down the mountain on the second run.

    For accommodations, we booked into the top-rated Torian Plum slopeside condominiums operated by ResortQuest Steamboat, we gasped upon entering the two-bedroom/three-bath condo. It was huge and included a dining room, kitchen, living room with fireplace and study. The balcony served up views of the resort’s pool, which is surrounded by four hot tubs, each heated to a different temperature. Rates range from $195 to $315 in summer; $155 to $250 a night between Sept. 5 and Nov. 18. Rates are significantly higher in winter (www.resortquest.com).

    Exploring the town, we found it charming and less glitzy than a Vail or Breckenridge, but still with 250 shops and more than 70 restaurants.

    We stopped into F.M. Light & Sons, a 100-year-old Western clothing outfitter that’s an institution in these parts. Emilee walked out with a black Stetson and matching cowboy boots, the start of her transformation into a cowgirl. I got a cowboy hat for myself, too.

    Our exploration continued to the bike path that runs along the Yampa River on the edge of town. You can rent a bike, but it’s just as enjoyable to stroll along the river in the sunshine, past the town rodeo. Looking up at the mountains in this quiet place, time just seemed to move more slowly.

    To get our rush on again, we headed for the Steamboat Springs Health & Recreation Association, a year-round pool lover’s paradise. There’s an Olympic-size lap pool, hot mineral pools, kiddie pools and a huge waterslide that rivals anything you’d find at Six Flags. Emilee and I zipped down the twisting slide on double tubes, single tubes, no tubes.

    There’s more to Steamboat than snow. The warm-weather months may be its best-kept secret.

    — ggatlin@bostonherald.com